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Finishing and Post Processing 3D Printed Objects - Scotch Brite Wheels and Cordless Rotary Tool

Please visit for more information on this and many other projects! As in this episode we will be looking at tips and tricks for finishing 3D printed plastic parts using a Scotch Brite Wheels and Cordless Rotary Tool. Links:

Soft Sanding finishing technique

Soft sanding is a technique for smoothing out hard to reach places on 3d printed parts

How to finish 3D printed parts - Production Look?

I want to share my process of finishing 3D printed parts. I have access to limited resources so I found the best way to give 3D printed parts a professional look. Now no one would say that these were 3D printed but bought off the shelf. Stick around to see how you can do this treatment to your prints. Music: Royalty Free Music from Bensound ------------------//------------------ DOWNLOAD: ------------------//------------------ FOLLOW ME ON: ------------------//------------------ MORE PROJECTS TUTORIALS and POSTS ------------------//------------------ Here I am using Acrylic putty. It adheres well to plastic surfaces. For larger surfaces I used a plate to spread the putty. And for finer details just used my finger. Here because the surface was very porous I used my finger to push in the putty. After applying it on all the surfaces I let it dry for 2 hours before continuing with the next step. SANDING Using some double sided tape I fix the sanding paper to the work table. This is a 200 grit sand paper. Then I place the part and with even pressure start sanding the surface. I check for bumps and continued with sanding till the surface was smooth. For hard to reach places I cut a strip of sanding paper to make sanding easier. Moving to 600 grit sandpaper. The bulk of the putty is removed in 200grit sandpaper. The 600 grit just polishes the surface. A point to note will be to use MDF as the base for the sanding paper. Some of the putty has gone inside the holes. I used a counter sink bit to remove them. Here is the main speaker housing. I followed the same process. The putty evens out big scratches too. Here is a clear example of how well acrylic putty fills the print layers. Here is the final piece after sanding. PRIMER This is Asian Paints oil based primer. Use very little amount by thinning it properly. I dint do it so I had to sand again after primer. But you can avoid this step if you thin the primer well. This primer usually takes about 30mins to dry. PAINTING I bought some gorgeous colors from Asian Paints Royal with Matt finish. I absolutely love matt finishes. This is dark grey color. Just a small amount is enough to get good coverage. Also its water based. This is the rustic turquoise colour that I used to accent the edges. Using the Bosny matt clear coat I sealed the paint after it dried. Oh! Btw the yellow colour did not match so I painted that too in grey later. I applied a generous amount of coat. But sprayed it from a distance so it dint clog anywhere spoiling the finish. It repeated this twice at an interval of 2hrs. Later after removing the painters tape I attached the speakers with some screws. Those white spots at the rim of the speaker were also given a coat of paint. Using two component epoxy from Araldite is very easy. Just mix and apply and it sets quickly. I applied a thin layer around the speakers and then quickly set the top piece. This hides all the screws and gives a clean look. I designed a printed it in three steps for this purpose. And here is the final product. Let me know what you think of the finish? Do it still look 3D printed?? Please share this video with all 3D printing enthusiasts so they can learn a few. Please share with me ur questions in the comments. Please follow me on instagram at @mrjcrp to see the latest work in progress. Also #mediamilan whenever you repeat some of the designs shown here. I would love to see them. Until next time! Happy Learning!!

Finishing 3D Prints 101: How to Glue 3D Printed Parts Together

For more information on MakerBot Desktop 3D Printers visit - For more information on 3D Printing services, and finishing services for 3D printed parts visit - To purchase supplies for your MakerBot 3D Printer, or other desktop 3D printer visit - HOW TO GLUE YOUR 3D PRINTS Gluing your 3D prints can be a powerful post-processing method if you’re looking to combine multiple components of an assembly, or create a model larger than the build volume of your 3D printer. In this How To, we will show you some of the best practices associated with gluing your 3D prints. Working time will vary depending on your model. The process shown took us about 20 minutes from start to finish. SUPPLIES 3D Print with multiple components Cyanoacrylate glue 2 part epoxy Rubber bands Paper towels Scraping tool 400-1000 grit sandpaper Respiratory mask Gloves Eye protection STEP 1: OBTAIN YOUR MODEL (DESIGN OR DOWNLOAD) For our model, we chose a prototype hair dryer created by Ferro from GrabCAD.If you’re designing from scratch, consider where you’d like the components to be joined. STEP 2: PREPARE A. When preparing models for gluing in MakerBot Print, keep in mind how your print settings will affect the gluing process. Consider: Print settings, print orientation, and number of build plates B. Because of the size of our model, we chose to print on our MakerBot Replicator+ Desktop 3D Printer in MakerBot PLA. STEP 3: ROUGHING Supplies used: Needle-nose pliers or flush cutters A. Remove prints from the build plate B. Remove rafts C. Remove large pieces of support D. Approach smaller pieces and fine details STEP 4: INSPECT JOINTS Your model is ready to glue when all surfaces and joints are smooth and fit together as intended. STEP 5: SECURE COMPONENTS Supplies used: Rubber bands A: Join model components using rubber bands Join model components using rubber bands as they will better conform to the shape of your model. STEP 6: SPOT GLUE Supplies used: cyanoacrylate glue, accelerator, paper towels A. Begin gluing by, spot glue around your model (this will ensure that your model is evenly attached in all places) B. Apply a small amount of glue to a seam in a central location C. Wipe away any excess with a paper towel D. Use an accelerator and spray the area you just glued E. Once glue has cured, remove the rubber bands STEP 7: COMPLETE SEAMS A. Apply glue evenly to the remaining unglued seams B. Wipe away any excess C. Spray accelerator STEP 8: INSPECT Take a moment to examine the fit. STEP 9 (OPTIONAL): FILL SEAMS Supplies used: Bondo, 400 & 1000 grit sandpaper and putty knife If you find that your seams are rough or have gaps, you can use bondo or filler to smooth them - this works especially well if you plan to paint your model or create a silicone mold around it. Fillers like bondo come in two parts - filler and hardener. A. Pour small amount of filler on a tray B. Spread small amount of hardener next to filler C. Mix and spread generously across seam D. Allow to cure E. Sand lightly using 400/1000 grit sandpaper

Talking About 3D Printed Sanding Tools with Punished Props

Let's say you need what a special sanding tool provides, but, you have a 3d printer and the ability to make it yourself? Here is an incredibly easy way to custom create special sanding tools to help you get the job done. Sanding Stick on Thingiverse: Punished Props! == Support the Channel via Patreon! = == Find Me Socially = Twitch: = Twitter: = Facebook: = Instagram: == Shop at the Affiliate Links Below to Help the Channel! = Printed Solid: = Matterhackers: == Want some 3D Printing Nerd Swag? = 3D Printing Nerd shirt! = 3D Printing Nerd mug! Want to send me something for Fan Mail Friday? attn: 3D Printing Nerd 509 NE 165th st Shoreline, WA 98155 USA Royalty Free Music by

Finishing 3D Prints 101: How to Install Threaded Inserts in your 3D Prints

For more information on MakerBot Desktop 3D Printers visit - For more information on 3D Printing services, and finishing services for 3D printed parts visit - To purchase supplies for your MakerBot 3D Printer, or other desktop 3D printer visit - HOW TO INSTALL THREADED INSERTS IN YOUR 3D PRINTS Threaded brass inserts can be a great way to add longevity to 3D printed enclosures that need to accept screws. In this “how to” we will show you some of the best practices associated with installing threaded brass inserts into your 3D printed enclosures. Working time will vary depending on your model and how many inserts you plan to install. The process shown took us about 10 minutes from start to finish. SUPPLIES Soldering Iron Threaded brass inserts with matching machine screws Washers Pliers Vise Heat resistant gloves Eye protection Respiratory mask STEP 1: OBTAIN YOUR MODEL If you are designing your model to meet a specific need, remember to design the holes in your model slightly smaller than the inserts you plan to install. This will account for any plastic that melts when installing inserts. If you are adding inserts to a downloaded model, purchase your inserts with the hole diameter in mind. For our model, we chose this “Light Switch Box” designed by Thingiverse user qbasan. STEP 2: PREPARE & PRINT When installing inserts, changing a few print settings in MakerBot Print can be a big help. Increase the number of shells in your print. This will leave more plastic around inserts. Once you have selected your settings you can print your object. We chose to print our model on the MakerBot Replicator+. STEP 3: ROUGHING Supplies Used: Needlenose pliers Once your model has been printed and removed from the build plate, remove any rafts or support material. STEP 4: HEAT SOLDERING IRON Supplies Used: Soldering Iron Allow your soldering iron to heat for 3-5 minutes before installing inserts. This will ensure that you have to use the least amount of force to install inserts. STEP 5: SECURE PRINT IN PLACE Supplies Used: Soldering Iron Before installing your inserts, it’s also important that your model be secure. If your model moves during installation of an insert, you could damage the void or even the model itself. We used a multi-axis vice that allowed us to work on the model from a few different angles. STEP 6: PARTIALLY INSTALL INSERTS Supplies Used: (continued use through Step 9) Multi-axis vice, soldering iron, threaded brass inserts, and pliers Because PLA has a relatively low heat deflection temperature and can deform at moderate temperatures, it is important to install inserts gradually. A: Grasp your insert with pliers B: Position insert over hole C: Press the insert half way into your print holding the soldering iron vertically D: Move on to the next insert STEP 7: ALLOW TO COOL As brass transfers temperature relatively quickly, your inserts should be cool within a minute or so. STEP 8: COMPLETELY INSTALL INSERTS Once you’ve allowed your model to cool for a minute or so, install the inserts until they are flush with the top of your model. When completing the installation of inserts be sure to avoid: Installing to quickly and pushing down on your inserts with too much force STEP 9: INSTALL SCREWS, WASHERS OR OTHER HARDWARE Supplies Used: Screws & washers Screwdriver Multi-axis vice Thread in your screws using a screwdriver or drill.

How To: Clean up 3D Prints!!

In this video I cover my current clean up process on all my PLA 3D prints! I 3D Model and digitally sculpt all of my 3D prints unless stated otherwise. Please feel free to leave questions below or reach out to me on social media! Final Costume: Items used in this video: Ultimaker 2 Extended: Kit to make the ultimaker a +: Matterhackers Pro PLA: Large Plyers: Jewelry Plyers: Metal File Kit: Sandpaper: Zip Kicker: Hobby Super Glue: Black Worbla: JB plastic Weld: Spot Putty Bondo: Acryl Green: Dupli Color Filler Primer: Awesome people I mentioned! Matterhackers Inc: Punished Props: Coregeek Creations: Beer Money Props: Support my patreon!! → Buy gear here! → To watch me work live check out my Twitch channel! Also check me out on other social media! Facebook: Instagram: Twitter: Music: Kerusu - We Rise Again (ft. BriCie) Link: Kerusu Social Media: BriCie:

Finishing and Painting 3D-Printed Models!

For our final video with designer Jacky Wan, we chat about his process for taking 3D-printed models and painting and finishing them. Jacky shows us his custom airbrushing station made from an old CD spindle cover, along with his technique for printing masks to cover his models. Plus, an adorable 3D-printed accessory for puppies! Find more of Jacky's projects at and Find more of Sean's 3D printing work at Shot by Joey Fameli and edited by Norman Chan Subscribe for more videos! Follow us on Twitter: Get updates on Facebook: Tested is: Adam Savage Norman Chan Joey Fameli Thanks for watching!

📌This Coating Really Works for Smoothing your PLA Prints the Easy Way - No Sanding - Great Results

At Last I have found a successful way for Smoothing PLA 3D Prints using an easily obtainable product. You simply apply this with a small paint brush, and allow it to dry. 📌Banggood 3D Printers 📌Gearbest 3D Printers No sanding is needed to achieve a near glass like PLA Smoothing with Good Results. I will be testing this coating further to see how it reacts to Acrylic Paint, and Spray Painting. Obviously the better quality your 3D print is, then the smaller amount of this coating will be needed. P.S. I do believe I have found a really easy way to get a smooth surface coating for your PLA prints. All My Smoothing PLA Video Tests Below. 1 of 5: Nail Polish and Ethyl Acetate 2 of 5: Heat Gun and a Reflow Station 3 of 5: Plasti-Kote Plastic Primer 4 of 5: Clear Concrete Sealer 5 of 5: Success at Last 🎯The product I used in this Video Polyurethane clear gloss timber floor coating. In Australia its called Wattle Estapol clear gloss 📌 Checkout other videos from Garry Purcells YouTube Channel:

6 TIPS for finishing 3D PRINTS

What are the best ways to make your 3D prints look AWESOME? Here are 6 things I always do to make my parts look like they're injection molded! WEBSITE ------------- STEPHENHAWES.COM FOLLOW ------------- Instagram - @sphawes Twitter - @stephen_p_hawes MUSIC --------- Music by Joakim Karud

PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!

A lot of people know about Acetone smoothing for ABS parts, but what about smoothing PLA prints? Here are my results using 3D Gloop, as well as Brasso and a Rustoleum Gloss coat. Things. Got...Shiny. 3D Gloop is available here : (10% off with code 'MAKEANYTHING') Brasso : Rustoleum Clear Gloss Spray : Other products mentioned : XTC-3D Epoxy Resin : Polysher : Acetone :

Simple way to make ultra-smooth 3D prints at home

In this video I'll be showing you how to treat 3D printed parts with an acetone vapor bath to make make impressive looking injection mold quality prints. My goodness it comes out nicely! The 3D prints were done with this low-cost 3D Printer: And here's where to get some Acetone: Good quality ABS filament: Owl model: Battery Bank for fan: This video is sponsored by Ancestry DNA. Sponsor message: To discover details about your unique family history, go to to save 10% on an AncestryDNA kit.

Finishing 3D Prints 101: How to Sand 3D Printed Parts

For more information on MakerBot Desktop 3D Printers visit - For more information on 3D Printing services, and finishing services for 3D printed parts visit - To purchase supplies for your MakerBot 3D Printer, or other desktop 3D printer visit - HOW TO SAND YOUR 3D PRINTS Sanding 3D printed models can be a great way to eliminate layer lines in preparation for painting, silicone molding, or vacuum forming. In this “how to”, we will show you the best practices associated with sanding your 3D prints. Working time will vary depending on your model. The process shown took us about 3 hours from start to finish. SUPPLIES Sandpaper (80, 120, 240, 200, 1000, 1500 grit) Handheld electric sander X-acto Knife Needlenose pliers Flush cutters Chisels Bin to hold water Respiratory Mask Eye protection Gloves STEP 1: PREPARE & PRINT MODAL Consider: Print settings, print orientation, number of build plates. Surfaces printed in the Z axis will have the smoothest surface finish. STEP 2: ROUGHING Supplies used: Needle-nose pliers or flush cutters and chisels A. Remove the print from the build plate B. Remove rafts and support material from the model C. Remove large pieces of support first, and then approach smaller pieces and fine details D. Clean the edges and seams of your model to ensure better alignment of pieces STEP 3: SAND WITH COARSE GRIT SANDPAPER (DRY) Supplies used: Electric sander and 80 grit sandpaper A. Begin sanding with coarse (80 grit) sandpaper B. When sanding with 80 grit sandpaper, the goal is to remove any leftover blemishes from raft or support material, and create an even surface that you will later refine. This process will remove the most amount of material and take the most time. C. In early stages of sanding you will notice that your model surface that was once fairly shiny will become dull and rough and change in color. The shine will return as you move to higher sanding grits. D. To save some time you can use an electric sander or multitool. If using a multi tool, be sure to choose a low setting to avoid overheating/melting the PLA. E. After each sanding stage, clean the model of any dust and inspect for a uniform surface finish STEP 4: SAND WITH MEDIUM GRIT SANDPAPER (DRY) Supplies used: Electric sander and 120 & 240 grit sandpaper A: Sand with 120 grit sandpaper (dry) B: Sand with 240 grit sandpaper (dry) C: If you notice large imperfections that you have missed, return to a lower sanding grit to refine those areas STEP 5: SAND WITH FINE GRIT SANDPAPER (WET) Supplies used: 1000 grit sandpaper, plastic bin and water When your model’s surface is even and refined it is time to wet sand the model using fine grit sandpaper. This process will not remove much material, but will do the most to polish its surface. A: Submerge the model in a tub filled half way with water B. Using 1000 grit sandpaper, sand the model until it is completely smooth to the touch C. Dry the model and inspect for a uniform surface finish FINAL PART If you have properly sanded your model, its surface should now be even, blemish free, and glass-like to the touch.

Painting & Finishing 3D Printed Models: Harry Potter Elder Wand

Bill Doran, from Punished Props, stopped by to show me how to properly finish my 3d printed Harry Potter Elder Wands. It took a lot of sanding, priming, painting, and weathering! Punished Props on YouTube: Bill Doran's book Foamsmith and Foamsmith 2: The Elder Wand by jakereeves on Thingiverse: Want to see how PLA, ABS, Z-Ultrat, and Copper filaments compare for sanding? ▼ Support the channel through Patreon! ▼ ▼ Buy 3d printers, accessories, and filament at Printed Solid using my affiliate link! ▼ http://printedsolid.3dprintingnerd.... ▼ HOLY COW BUY A 3D PRINTING NERD SHIRT! ▼ ▼ GET A 3D PRINTING NERD MUG! ▼ ▼ Would you like to support my channel through Amazon? Click the links below! ▼ - US - Canada - UK / Ireland ▼ Buy 3D printers, filament, and accessories at Matterhackers using my affiliate link! ▼ -~-~~-~~~-~~-~- Please watch: "Fan Mail Friday - On a Saturday!" -~-~~-~~~-~~-~-

Make your 3D printed part (surface) look awesome! TUTORIAL

My name is Jure Korber and this is my TUTORIAL on how to make smooth and shiny finish on any 3D printed part! My technique involves using: - Sandpaper 180 + 400 + 800 grit - Spray Filler - Spray Paint It's relatively cheap process that costs few $ per can and you really use a little of it for one part, so overall it's really cheap. You can change color and finish to any of the 3D printed materials, except the very soft and flexible. Overall procedure takes quite some time, but since 3D printing is not the method for mass production, this is the excellent combo! Have fun & leave questions/feedback in the description box below! Do you want to make DIY enclosure, just so you can print ABS and PETG without warping too? Check out: Do you want to make your enclosure SMART? Place Smart 3D printer electronics inside it! Links: 3D printed parts: Enclosure: Stinger frame:

Finishing 3D Prints // Bits | I Like To Make Stuff

Want to make your 3d prints look like detailed replicas? In this episode of Bits, we'll show you how to hide those pesky layer lines. TOOLS & SUPPLIES (affiliate links): MUSIC: Subscribe: Check out my TopVideos!: Learn 3d modeling, get digital plans, and cool merch at Want to support ILTMS? Get exclusive content and more... FOLLOW: #ILikeToMakeStuff About I Like To Make Stuff: We have lots of projects including woodworking, metalworking, electronics, 3D printing, prop making and more! These videos are our attempt inspire and empower others to make the stuff that they want to have. Hopefully you'll see something here that will inspire you to make something that you're passionate about! Finishing 3D Prints // Bits | I Like To Make Stuff I Like To Make Stuff

Smoothing PLA with Sandpaper

Welcome to Tinkerine Experiments. This is a new series that will help explore some myths and rumours regarding 3D printing. We will be testing it out for ourselves and showing you the results! This episode will be talking about post-processing the surface of the PLA model with sandpaper.
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