Flexible sheets (removable) tend to have very thin and fragile (in comparison) layers of various combinations of material that usually wears quickly, becomes brittle, or can tear or peel off. The sheets themselves can warp over time and in our view, any combination of the mentioned issues makes this type in the long run, "consumable". I dont like replacing things when I dont have to. It's not about being cheap either, but most of the flex plates cost 2X what you pay for a generally indestructible, permanent surface like the PEI we use and recommend. I'll gladly pair up this stuff to any of the flexible sheets and a few months down the road of heavy use will seal that deal. The same goes for the Build-Tak type surfaces. They just dont last.
Our oldest PEI is still on our Prusa MK2's and after 5 years they look and function pretty much the same as they did when they were new. This is why we have carried this material over to every other machine in operation and see no reason to change. You'll also find adhesion becomes a thing you rarely have to revisit or worry about. Problematic materials like PETG and ABS just dont hassle this at all, although PETG requires a release agent. Thats a good thing though. Nobody likes lifting or warp failures, and we just dont tolerate that possibility at all. Its up to you.
For the Sidewinder X1: 12" X 12" 1mm PEI
For the Genius: 10" X 10" mm PEI (We trim them to the required 235mm X 235mm size)
For the Sidewinder X1: 12" X 12" .5mm PEI (2nd Choice)
For the Sidewinder X1: 12" X 12" .5mm PEI (3rd Choice)
For the Sidewinder X1: 12" X 12" 1mm PEI (No Adhesive)
For the Sidewinder X1: 12" X 12" Adhesive Sheets (5 Pack)
Elmer's Glue Stick - Purple Washable
(We make "Barney Blood™" from this, as well as use for spot adhesion) Unlike hairspray, and overpriced adhesion polymers, this matched with the PEI sheets above insure trouble free printing, hands down.
Titan Extruder Arm - Metal Replacement
Yup, people break them. There are various reasons why you would want to upgrade or replace the stock plastic arm. Whatever the reason, this is a solid upgrade. Note however, you need to pay attention to the spring tension and length of the springs. Sometimes the springs can be long, and this is reported across all vendors because these are made by just a few locations in China. Keep your old spring handy for comparison.
Titan Extruder Arm - Metal
Titan Extruder Arm - Metal
Nozzles - Volcano Style for Sidewinder X1 and Genius Models
Nozzles are a replacement reality as time goes on. You can over pay for some expensive ones out there, but truth be told- from a machinist and a production printer, you dont have to, and standard brass fits the bill most of the time. Do some math. Its far more convinient to replace a nozzle for a buck every 6 months or year (using regular PLA, Wood, and even some exotics like PETG, etc) or even more than to drop 15, 20 or even more for "exotic" nozzles that will still need to be replaced. As for the "engineering" marketing emphasizes on with these over priced nozzles- its mostly bullshit. Sorry, but for what they are, what they actually DO, and HOW they actually work, its all about getting a premium for something that is more ego than anything else. Your money my friends. Now in the case of some exotic filaments like Glow-in the Dark, Carbon Fiber, etc, you will benefit sometimes by moving to a better alloy nozzle, but then again, if you only periodically do so, why trash (you will still) a 20 or 30 dollar nozzle when a 1 dollar standard one will do for your project? Think about it.
Standard Replacement Nozzles 0.40
Assorted Sizes 0.2 through 1.2 - Great for Miniatures and Big Printing Heights
Micro Swiss - Even Better for Exotics 0.40
Z Rods - Lead Screws - Threaded Rod: Couplers
The expandable couplers found on alot of the printers now can impede or defeat the purpose of maintaining clean Z movements during printing by allowing just enough play to affect the print. While you can get reasonable results using the OEM ones included on the stock machines, like our other stable machines that have never used them it was no argument to change these out and rule out the possible Z banding issues that these can be responsible for. Artillery has since converted to a more rigid version but we still like keeping it solid. The trick is to properly install and make sure there is a even distance between the stepper motor shaft and the lead screw- we use rubber O-rings to insure the proper gap is there.
These work for both the Sidewinder X1 and the Genius models
These are also better replacements
Cooling - The blow you need to know...
The stock setup works fine under most circumstaances, but as with any printer and filament combination results can be improved. We do some pretty full buildplates and because of crazy bridging and tiny parts a better solution just made sense. It made profile changes less nessecary and for those that need replacements the cost of the fans as listed insures you wont be caught running hot in the future because you get a few to spare. First, Ill link the mofified fan shroud (parts cooling) then the fans for both the part cooler itself and also the ones we use for replacing the extruder fan.
The nice thing about this mod is you have the flexibility to generally run your fan at or around 50 percent for most prints, the adjusted air flow gets the cooling where its supposed to be and OFF the hotend. Its a remix I had to do of a community one, and does the job. The 5015 fans (below) are well worth the upgrade. I will do a "stock" fan version of this eventually, but dont hold your breath. I can bridge across the whole buildplate as it stands right now, you just need a few additional screws and you are good to go.
NOTE: Bear in mind that fans can have different voltages, and DEFINITLEY check the polarity by comparing the stock fans to the replacement you wish to use- you may have to swap pins on the connector, otherwise you can burn up a new fan. This is true for ANY fan you buy.
5015 Cooling Fans (For Both the Sidewinder X1 and Genius using the above shroud)
4010 Extruder Cooling Fan (Replacement if you need it) For Both the Sidewinder X1 and Genius
Thermistors and Heater Cartidges
For the hotend, one of the common accidents or mistakes made is not giving enough emphasis on treating the thermistor and heating element wires enough care. It happens, and with the thermistor itself, we prefer a better option that also makes installation and replacement if ever needed much easier- a screw in replacement instead of the thermal pasted original. Most of the time the ones we got had the needed identical JST connectors, but others have reported needing a variation. You CAN easily pull the pins out of the replacement and drop them into the original, there are many videos out there showing you how. Below are also links to a small pack of JST connectors, definitely worth having around for future use anyways.
M3 Stud Screw In Thermistor - works for both the Sidewinder X1 and the Genius Models
JST Assortment (Just good to have)
Save that USB Port
A weak point on alot of 3D printers is the wear and tear introduced on the USB connection for the flashdrives, especially if you are printing with regularity. This solution is easy, and saves the nee dto swap a board out because of a port failure.
Right Angle USB Extension
Ribbon Cable Tape
You know that cool matte finish tape the covers the ribbon cables on the Z and X Gantrys?
Screws. Everyone needs them eventually.
Having a descent assortment handy just makes good sense. A few of the modifications youll make over time will probably put you in the position to be needing some. These assortments are reasonably priced and have enough variation to cover just about anything youd want.
M3 M4 M5 Screw Assortment 1
M3 M4 M5 Screw Assortment 2
Not Finished Yet!